Sunday, August 6 and Saturday, August 12
Committee: Tim Burton; Chair, Brian Jones, Sandra Tinch
Drivers arrive no later than 2.5 hrs before starting time.
Children’s Power Wheels at 5:15p on Sunday, and 6:15p Saturday
2021 was the Biggest Derby at a Tennessee County Fair (38 Cars at the Sunday Derby and 50 Cars at the Saturday Derby)
Sunday, Aug. 6 – 6p
Sponsored by Ford Lincoln of Cookeville
Entry Fee — $20
Classes: Stock V8, Stock Front Wheel Drive, Mini Vans and Small Pickups.
Premium: 1st =$1,200, 2nd = $500, 3rd = $250, 4th = $100
$8,200 total premiums for each Derby.
Rules posted after June 1 @ www.putnamcountyfair.org & Facebook: Putnam County TN Fair Derby
Saturday, Aug. 12 – 7p
Sponsored by Dry Levee and Cummins Filtration/Fleetguard
You will not want to miss the final demolition derbies at the present Fairgrounds.
Lots of new things being planned for each night at the “Derby of all Derbies”
– new classes – new thrills – new crashes –
Questions: Call Tim Burton — 931-239-8095
- Any FWD 4 & 6 cylinder with wheelbase less than 108” No full framed cars!
- Car must be clean of all trash, bumper covers, all body molding, lights, and glass must be removed as well.
- You may run shifter, header, aftermarket fuel cells. No oil/trans coolers allowed. (these cannot add strength to car or will be removed)
- Must have valid driver license (if under 18 must have parent’s signature)
- Helmet & eye protection are not optional, must be worn at all times while on the track.
- No fuel leaks or you will not run.
- Seatbelt must be intact and worn at all times on the track.
- Judges decisions are final.
- No alcohol or profanity or you will be disqualified.
- 4-point cage is required.
- Door bars are to be no more than 12” past door post.
- You can run tank protector. No more than 30” wide. It can go to package tray but cannot be welded or bolted to anything.
- Door bars are to be no bigger than 2”x 6” tubing. Door/seat bar no bigger than 3”x 3” tubing. Tank protector is to be no bigger than 3”x 3” tubing.
- Cage must be at least 5” away from floors pan or anything to strength car other than tank protector to package tray. (No down bars or kickers)
- You may run 3”x 3” center bar for mounting shifter. This cannot strengthen car in anyway.
- Roll over bar no bigger than 2”x 6” tubing must be straight up, can be mounted to roof with 2- ½ inch bolts. Go through roof only with these or they will be removed.
- No body creasing. Quarters must remain upright. Trunk must remain stock or you can run without trunk lid. If you run trunk lid you must have 10” hole for inspection.
- To mount hood, you may run 2 pieces of all thread through top of core support only no bigger than ¾ inch in diameter. (abuse this and you will remove them)
- You may have 2- 2”x 2” angle mounted to hood per fender seam with 1 ½ inch bolt per piece of angle to hold hood down. No longer than 3in long on your pieces of angle.
- Windshield bar is a must. You can run 9 wire or 3in wide strapping from roof to firewall. (Cannot connect to roll over bar)
- Doors must be 9 wired or chained shut in no more than 2 places per seam. This is a must if your door comes open you will be disqualified. This cannot strengthen car in anyway or it will be removed (Can Weld doors 2 places per seam with 3x6x1/8th)
- No more than 2 strands of 9 wire from bumper to core support.
- May run 2 strands of 9 wire from rear bumper to roof.
- Must have 10” hole in hood for fire access.
- Frames must remain stock. (no patch plates, creasing, or manipulating of the frame) if found you will be loaded. This includes welding
- Frame can be shortened to front of core support.
- You may notch rear frame rails 1 spot per side.
- Cradle must remain stock no changing bolts or welding of any kind on cradle (this is automatic DQ)
- Rear bumper must remain stock. If you don’t want to run rear bumper you can remove it.
- You may swap front bumper for any bumper. If wanting to run a pointy it must be factory or a replica. NO HOMEMADE POINTYS.
- The only welds on the front cradle are bumper shocks and bumper or you will be loaded.
- 12” bumper shock on the outside of the frame rail only. This cannot tie into lower cradle. This can be a 2×2 square on 2” round tubing.
- We will drill frames.
- Don’t abuse this or you will cut it!
- Engine and trans must be factory to yr., make, model of car. ( only thing you can change is EFI to carb)
- Can run solid motor mounts.
- You may run any wheel and tire combo.
- Solid suspension is okay. NO SLIDER AXLES.
- Rear drivetrain must remain stock
- Radiators must remain in factory location.
- No protectors of any kind (header pro, valve cover pro, etc)
- Axles must remain stock no aftermarket axles.
- Pre-ran cars get nothing extra. You will be held to some standard.
IF IT’S NOT IN THE RULES DON’T DO IT!
IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS CALL.
DON’T PLAY THE GREY AREA CARD!!
IF YOU DECIDE TO TRY, BE PREPARED TO LOAD AND WATCH!
Tim Burton Stock Rules
- Stock OEM 1980 or newer unless specified.
- ALL AIR BAGS, windows, windshield, trim, plastic bumpers, grills, and lights must be removed.
- Wheels must be original to the vehicle, tires must be street tread (no mud grips), max of 2ply, must be radial no bias ply, no inner tubes, and no doubles.
- Hood and trunk must be open for inspection but can be tied in 6 places with #9 wire after. Hood must have a 12-inch or larger hole for Fire Department access.
- Battery must be tied down and secure in the passenger floor or seat aera, fuel tank must be mounted and secure in rear seat area. Batteries and gas tanks MUST be secured with NO movement. You can only have one automotive battery.
- Doors can be tied shut with #9 wire in up to six places, no limit to duct tape in window openings. Doors must not open during the derby!
- The only welding allowed is one seat bar, the seat bar must be secured and safely mounted behind the sear and attached to the door post with no more than 6×6 plate and the post must not be any larger than 4-inches in diameter. Seat bar is for driver protection only, NO cages allowed.
- No welding the bumpers or bumper mounts OEM bumpers must mount exactly as they did from the factory, NO modifications to the shocks or mounts allowed. #9 wire is allowed and recommended on bumpers.
- All motors, drivetrains, and fuel systems must be OEM stock to vehicle. Absolutely no aftermarket parts or exhaust, no modifications to suspension. No changing tire size to modify bumper height.
- No aftermarket parts period. No welding or modifications to body’s or frames, NO pre-bending body’s or frames.
- 4-point cage minimum of 3” round tube 1/4 thick or 2x6x1/4. Door bars, dash, and seat bars need to be 3x3x1/4. (If these requirements are not meet, you will cut the cage out.)
- This is back to basic stock classes, if you spend more than a weekend building it, the car may be over built. This car should be built just like your grandma drove it off the show room floor.
- MOST IMPORTANT: Call before you build, some rules may change before show time Officials decisions are final.
Tim Burton Quick Build Rules
- Any automobile 1980 and newer
- Any engine and transmission in any vehicle. You may cut the firewall but leave the tunnel above the transmission and driveshaft (dangerous areas).
- Engine can have 1/2 cradle max with front plate and pulley pro, you may run a mid-plate to accommodate the steel ball.
- Engine mounts can be aftermarket, ZTR and Brian’s machine shop style bur it must have a polyurethane style mount.
- No engine chains anywhere.
- You may run a steel bell and steel tail but NO BRACES, no pan plates nothing more than just a bell, rubber mount, ratchet strap or wire at the crossmember.
- Any rear end, it can be braced but CANNOT reinforce the body or frame in any way. All protection must be 6 inches away from the body or frame rail.
- You may run a slip shaft.
- Any wheel and tire combination.
- You may shorten a Lincoln or Merc to the same specs as a Crown Victoria but, DO NOT MOVE THE EYE!
- You may have a 10-inch long 2×2 bumper shock, it must be inside the frame and can only be welded through the factory holes and NO MORE. Abuse this rule and you will lose the shock. In the rear you may alter the shock to get bumper height or angle. 2×2 round or square material. If you choose to run a factory shock it can be no longer then 10-inches.
- You may cut the flaps at the boxes only to pitch the car, single bead of weld no bigger than 1/2 of the weld. NO ADDED METAL!
- For ride height you may add 1 piece of 2×2 1/4 plate on each side of the front a-arm and weld it (ride height only) or you can use twist in style spacers. DO NOT RUN ALL TREAD IN THE FRONT. For the back you will be allowed a solid all thread stock that can go through the package tray only, this CANNOT be used to bolt down the body.
- Crossmembers must remain stock or a piece of 2×2 square tubing. 4-inch piece of angle iron welded to the frame for crossmembers mount. Bolt the crossmember in. New mount cannot be added in front of the factory mount.
- You may run BOP adapter
- You may run a distributor clamp.
- You may run any style tie rod or plated tie rods.
- Sway bar must remain stock on the frame but can be bolted solid to the lower a-arm (NO metal can be added).
- You may put square body a-arms on a bubble style car. Factory style ball joints, no screw in style or pin replacement style. If needed, go to auto parts store, and buy a new one for 80-91 Crown Vic and drop it in.
- You many run an aftermarket steering column.
- Transmission coolers/ oil coolers are okay but cannot strengthen the body or frame.
- Any shifter, gas pedal, and brake pedal can be run. Batteries must be mounted in passenger side compartment. None of these can strengthen the body or frame as well. (Pay attention to how close your battery box design is from the transmission tunnel and fire wall area.)
- You may have a floating 4 bar cage: front and rear bars no larger the 3×3 and door bars no bigger then 2×6. Door bars can go from the firewall and must stop 8 inches before the back door seam. Roll bar must go straight up. Gussets are to be NO larger than 8 inches and all bars must be 6 inches away from any sheet metal, transmission, or floor pan.
- You may have a 28” wide gas tank protector 3×3 max tubing. It CANNOT be bolted or welded to ANY sheet metal. This should come directly off the rear bar, straight back to the package tray area, and it may go up and cover the upper part of the tank (nothing extreme this is for safety).
- Any factory car bumper it can be loaded, and seam welded. Dec, Dixon, YnW, and Brian’s machines shop bumpers are all fine. You may also run steel tubing in the rear bumper, but it must be between 2×6 and 4×6 in size, no thicker the 1/4.
- Front two core support bolts may be replaced with up to 1-inch all thread and it may proceed through the core support and hood. A max of 3-inch washer on the hood. A MAX of 8-inch tall 2×2 core support spacer.
- Hoods can be mounted in 6 locations, two of these spots will be your core support mounts. The other four can be one or the other; a piece of 2×2 3-inch-long angle welded to the hood and fender with one 1/2 bolt in it or 4 strands of wire through the fender or hood. YOU CANNOT DO BOTH!
- 4 door cars may have a total of 14 3×6 1/8 strapping per side, 2 door cars may only have 8 per side.
- You may have a 12” tall 1/4 thick driver’s door plate, it cannot go 3-inches past each seam.
- Radiators can be wired or ratchet strapped in. Factory condenser must be wired in as well if you choose to run one. Radiator must stay in factory location.
- Rear quarter panels and pillars can be creased but must remain standing.
- Trunk lids must have two 10×10 holes cut out for inspection. You may have 3×4 1/8 plates down each quarter panel to weld the trunk shut. You may also have two 3×4 1/8 plates on the speaker deck area and taillight panel area. Do not go overboard with theses, this is only to make it easier for you guys. If you would rather wire or bolt you can have 8 1/2 bolts through the upper drip rail or 8 strands of #9 wire through the drip rail, you may only do one of these options.
- No rear window bar.
- 1 front wind shield bar, user #9 wire or two pieces of 3×1/4 flat bar (this is for safety, make it simple.
- No frame or body swaps that will result in automatic disqualification,
- If you have a rusted frame, I must get pictures first, but fixes will be very limited. The same goes for pre-ran bent cars.
- 1998-2002 cars are allowed watts link conversions ZTR, toast style brackets are okay. Lower brackets cannot be any larger than 6-inchws, and upper brackets can be no bigger than 12-inches wide.
- You may run aftermarket control arms on the rear end 2×2 style or plated stock ones.
- You may change the 4 body bolts in the crush box area to the 1/2 bolt, no bigger than 2-inch body spacer but it must have a 1-inch gap between the body and frame, 3-inch washers inside the frame, and 3-inchs on the top side. No washer can be used as a plate on the topside, do not connect it into the pedals or accessories. All other body mounts and bolts must remain stock other than the core support bolts.
- No solid front coil springs, we need to be able to see the inside pockets.
- You may crease the humps 1-inch deep from the body bolts behind the tire to the body bolt in front of the tire. NO HUMP PLATES!
- 2002 and back cars can have four 4×4 plates.
2003 and UP
- 2003 and up cars can have two 4×4 plates. NO HUMP PLATES!
- Factory rack and pinion must stay, but you can have aftermarket steering.
- Bolt in cradles is allowed but aluminum cradle must remain. NO WELDIING TO THE FRAME.